I’ve listed online paddling info here before….but I’m working on a demo of canoe paddling….and I thought I’d post some of this info again….plus some new info I found….so here is an overview of paddling….beginning one stroke at a time:
From Webspace.webring.com: Canoeing Strokes:
Basic Strokes
Bow Stroke – This stroke is used to move the canoe forwards in a straight line. The stroke itself is simple. The paddler reaches forwards and places the paddle in the water. The paddle is then drawn towards the stern, in a line parallel to the keel. To recover the paddle is lifted from the water and swung forward in a circular motion. If done in reverse this will propel the canoe backwards.
Canadian Stroke – If the bow and stern men both do the bow stroke the canoe will turn slowly due to the leverage created by the paddlers. To correct for this the sternman uses the Canadian stroke. This is essentially the same as the bow stroke, except the blade is pushed slightly away from the side of the canoe at the end of the stroke. This counteracts the leverage created by paddling. The sternman will need to use the Canadian stroke once for every three to four bow strokes in order to maintain a straight course.
J-Stroke – This is a more sever form of the Canadian stroke, which is used by the sternman to turn the canoe towards the side that the sternman is paddling on.
Draw – This stroke is done by extending the paddle outwards, and drawing towards yourself. If this is done on opposite sides of the canoe by both the paddlers the canoe will rotate rapidly. If this is done on the same side by both paddlers the canoe will move sideways.
Pry/Push away – This is the opposite of the draw. The paddle is inserter into the water by the canoe, and pushed outwards. This has the same effect as the draw, but the result will be in the opposite direction.
Check – This is a simple stroke used for stopping. Simple insert the paddle in the water beside the canoe and hold it in place. This will slow the canoe.
Sweep – This stroke turns the canoe in a circle away from the paddling side of the canoe. To do this stroke place the paddle in the water as far in front of you as you can. Pull the blade in a wide semicircle until the paddle is behind you. This can also be done in the reverse direction, which will rotate the canoe towards the paddling side.
Putting It Together:
Going Straight – To go in a straight line the bowman should use the bow stroke, and the sternman should use the bow stroke, with enough Canadian stokes mixed in to keep the canoe traveling in a straight line.
Weak Turns – To make a weak turn towards the bowman’s paddling side several Canadian strokes can be used in a row. To turn away from the bowman’s paddling side the sternman can stop using Canadian strokes, or curve his/her stroke towards the keel.
Medium Turns – To make a medium turn sternman can use a ‘J’ stroke on the appropriate side of the canoe, while the bowman maintains the bow stroke. The sternman can also use short draws and pry’s to make medium turns.
Strong Turns – To make strong turns several things can be done. The sternman can use pry’s and draws to move the stern rapidly. The bowman can use prys and draws to move the bow rapidly, or both paddlers can use combinations of these strokes to achieve a strong turn.
Moving Sideways – There are three ways to move a canoe sideways. The first is for both paddlers to use a draw on the same side of the canoe. This will draw the canoe towards the paddling side. This is good for moving sideways towards an object.
The second method involves both paddlers using pry’s on the same side of the canoe. Controlling the canoe is difficult when doing this, but it is good for bringing the canoe alongside a dock or another canoe.
The final method relies on one person using a draw, and the other a pry, on opposite sides of the canoe (see picture below). This is good for situations where the canoe needs to be moved sideways when there is not enough time for one paddler to switch sides, and a turn is impractical (i.e. dodging a rock in white water).
Rotating – There are two way’s to rotate in place. The first is for both paddlers to draw or pry on opposite sides of the canoe. This will rotate the canoe in the direction of the pry/draw. The second method involves using the sweep stroke on opposite sides of the canoe. This will rotate the canoe in the direction of the sweeps.
Techniques:
Entering the Canoe – Although this seems like it should be simple, its not. If you are not careful you’ll flip the canoe and end up in the drink! To properly enter into the canoe take your paddle and place it across the gunwales. Next place one foot directly onto the keel, and shift your weight so it is directly over the keel. Now bring your other foot into the canoe and place it as near to the center as you can. Slowly lower yourself into a kneeling position and you’re done. To exit the canoe reverse this procedure.
Posture – Although canoes have seats you’re not supposed to sit on them as you would a seat. If you were to do this you’re center of gravity would be too high and the canoe would be prone to tripping. Instead you kneel on the bottom of the canoe and rest your behind on the seat. This lowers your center of gravity. This can be hard on the knees, so its a good idea to have some sort of pad to kneel on.
The Bowman – The bowman’s role is to look out for objects and to fallow the sternmans instructions.
The Sternman - The sternman role is to guide the canoe, which includes telling the bowman what strokes to use.
From the now defunct Wild Survive: Canoeing Tutorial – Stroke Techniques:
Canoeing Tutorial – Stroke Techniques (written by BB)
This segment covers the theory, and techniques used in the core strokes: Forward, reverse, turn, and move sideways. Although I am paddling solo from the heeled-over position for the demonstrations, the same form should be used in any position, solo or tandem.
When most people learn how to play the piano, they take a lesson from a parent or in school and they learn the correct way. They learn where to place the hands and the fingers, they learn what keys to hit with which fingers. And they learn to play the scales. These are the basics of typing. If you learn them, really well, thru repitition and concentration, then for the rest of your life you are a better pianist. The same is true with paddling.
One of the things a lot of novice paddlers do when learning how to canoe is they get in the habit of “lily dipping”. This foul habit can be traced to one simple, relatively obscure problem/cause. The cause: The cause of lily dipping is incorrect paddling form, where the top arm (the one used to hold the grip) is left to lazily hang down in the lap while trying to paddle. Like this:
What happens here is that with the paddle at that angle, you can never get an efficient stroke. The blade will have a tendency to sweep out and away from the boat turning it, rather than propelling it straight forward. The most efficient stroke form would include having the paddle blade perpendicular to the water surface for as long a draw as possible. By keeping the blade perpendicular in both both plains – fore/aft and side-to-side, the blade will “hold” as large a “pillow” of water as possible, and will be less likely to uncontrollably dump some of the pillowed water and make the paddle “wiggle” thru the water.
Also, by trying to keep it straight up-and-down thru the stroke, you reduce the tendency to push down at the beginning of the stroke, and to pull up at the end. By reducing the push/pull force on the boat, you will smooth out the ride and reduce the dolphining up and down thru the water. When taking a forward stroke, the power phaze is nearely complete when the shaft reaches your hip. At that point, you shoul ease up on the power and gradually let the paddle feather thru the water almost drifting to the surface where you can then bring it forward for another stroke.
Don’t be a lily dipper.
The opposite of lily dipping is “being and Arnold”!! Or, in other words, putting so much brute force in a stroke where it overpowers the water and it splashes all over the place. If you bury you paddle blade in the water, completely, it’ll take a lot of effort to “break the water”, but a lot of people try to place misguided trust in strength and completely disregard finesse. All that splashing around is just a waste of energy. Think- ”nice smooth entry”, and smooth-strong pull close to the side of the boat, and “float the paddle to the surface”. No splashing, no noise, no wasted energy, no dolphining… and you look like you know what you’re doing!!!
One last thing. When returning the paddle from the conclusion of one stroke to ready it for another stroke, you do not have to lift the paddle waaaaaaay up in the air with hands and paddle raised like you just won a race. Try to keep the paddle down in your lap, don’t bring your grip-hand up above your chin. The higher you hands raise above your heart, the harder your heart has to work. The higher you raise the paddle out of the water, the more you fight gravity. Give yourself a break and keep this motion low and smooth. Feather the blade back across the surface of the water. Again, low and smooth.
Get your arm out across your chest. Line up your grip hand with the blade of the paddle vertically. Like this:
This is proper form and this should be maintained thru the entire stroke.
The ready position at the start of the forward stroke. Notice my whole body is bent forward from waist up making the motion a whole-body thing, rather than just a shoulder and arm thing. Yes, I know my paddle is not straight up and down, it is from the front though!! While I do conscienciousely try to maintain proper form I do sometimes stray.
When your forward stroke reaches the point where your grip-hand is at your hip, you are now ready to add the “correction” into the motion. By propelling the boat forward on, say, the left side, the boat will move forward but the bow will also be forced slightly over to the right.
To correct this right-swinging motion there are two common method. The first is the “Rudder Stroke”. At the conclusion of the forward stroke, leave the blade fully immersed in the water with your grip hand at your hip, and then rotate your grip hand so that your thumb sticks straight up. The paddle shaft should rotate smothly around in the light grasp of your lower shaft-hand. When you thumb is completely vertical, the paddle blade will now, also, be vertical. At this point, leaving the blade in the water, gently pull in with the top grip-hand, and at the same time push out with the lower shaft-hand placing water pressure on the outside of the paddle blade. Hold this steady pressure until the bow swings back to its proper direction. Now, begin a nother stroke.
The Rudder Stroke – Thumbs up.
What you have just done was to take a forwward stroke with the “power-face” of the paddle being towards the stern. You then changed the power face to add the correction. This is a very effective stroke, but that power-face change will become a hindrance when trying to learn other strokes.
The alternative to the rudder stroke, is the J-Stroke. This is the stroke that nearly ALL other strokes are based off of. Learning to do a smooth J-stroke is a pleasure, and a door opened up to lots of other stroke possibiklities and combinations. This stroke is as simple as the Rudder Stroke but because it seems awkward at first sometimes people dismiss, or disregard it.
The only real difference in mechanics is that at the conclusion of the forward stroke leave the blade fully immersed in the water with your grip hand at your hip, and then rotate your grip hand so that your thumb starts to turn down.. The paddle shaft should rotate smothly around in the light grasp of your lower shaft-hand.the hand is rotated so the thumb points all the way straight down- that’s the awkward part. You really have to roll your wrist way over in order to get the blade vertical in the water. It will feel strained at first, but you’ll get used to it. The image in your head for this stroke should be that of carving a long, well…”J” in the side of the boat – albeit a long one.
It should look like this:
J-Stroke – Thumbs down.
Now, with the blade, and your wrists in this position, you can pull out with bottom shaft-hand, and pull in with the top grip-hand. This will place water pressure on the outside of the blade. Hold this until the bow swings back to the correct point.
Both the Rudder and J-Stroke should be practiced on both sides of the boat until you can do them without thought. They are like the pianist’s scales – practice them ALL the time.
(NOTE: Some people refer to the Rudder stroke as the Goon stroke….for good reason….try learning the J-stroke instead.)
From Wild Survive: Canoeing Tutorial – Solo Paddling Position:
Canoeing Tutorial – Solo Paddling Position (written by BB)
There are several options for positioning when paddling solo, each have pros and cons, related to different weather conditions, load size, speed, tracking, maneuverability, etc.
SEATED IN THE STERN SEAT
This is the position I commonly see employed by “novices”. Seated in the srern seat, knees together, feet pulled up under the seat, and stiff as a board!!
Whats happening here is that the paddler is just doing what comes naturally- sitting in a seat. And, it is logical to sit in the rear seat, because everyone knows that’s where you steer a canoe from. The problem with this position though, is manyfold: - The paddler’s center of mass, weight, is now very high, making the center of balance in the canoe very high and unstable. In an effort to stay balanced the paddler will constantly using the hip muscles to help correct the balance…. tiring them and making for very sore hips. - By being so high in the boat, the paddler is now far above the water requiring him/her to “reach” waaaayy down to the water for each stroke. This will have the tendency to rock the boat, further upsetting balance, and requiring undue movement and energy from the paddler. – If using this position when paddling tandem, your paddling partner, whether in stern or bow, will have to compensate for this additional movement in the canoe and also have to expend energy to compensate for balance. - Seated in this position, you have a greatly restricted range of motion back and fore, and side-to-side as well. You are unable to reach way forward to gain better control, more power, or greater maneuverability. You are unable to reach backwards ’cause youl fall over backwards. This position also restrics several large, powerful muscles in the hips and back from working properly, placing the strain on the already, stressed and tired hips. – One of the big problems with position, seated in the stern of the boat, is that if you have no gear, or weight in the bow of the boat, them you become a weather vane in the wind. At times, in high wind, it is impossible to paddle in any direction but downwind. The wind just catches the bow and spins you around. So, ultimately, you just end up paddling backwards on a windy day.
An improvement on this position is to place your feet out in front of you, slightly lowering the center of balance. The next step would be to kneel with legs and feet under the seat and your butt resting on the seat edge. Use a foam pad to cushion your knees and feet. You have now moved slightly forward, considerably lower, and now have much greater range of motion and use of powerful muscles in the hips and back.
KNEELING IN THE CENTER
The next step is to move further forward to the center of the canoe. This will require either gumby knees, a lot of stretching, or some sort of weight support- a rolled up foam pad, a stuff sack of old clothes – stradled and under your butt. When carrying lots of gear across a lake or down a wide river, this is the position I choose with the gear all in the forward end to evenly weight, or “trim” the boat. The boat has a long water line so its fast, and tracks well in a straight line, and I have easy access to paddle on either side.
What this position does is to get the paddler close to the center of the canoe reducing the weathervane effect. But it also puts the paddler at the center axis of the canoe alowing for greater, easier turning. The image in your head should be of one of those spinning seats at the counter of an old diner. Pull on the left and you go spinning clockwise, pull on the right and you go the other way. By the same token- pushing, rather than pulling, will have the opposite affect.
However, one problem with this position is that, being in the center of the canoe, you now have to reach waaaayy over to the side of the boat in order to get your paddle in the water and make an efficient stroke. Its just awkward!!
That said, this is also about the most stable postion in the canoe for running rapids or encountering heavt surf. it is the position I choose when paddling in those conditions.
The remedy for the problems of kneeling in the center, is to move over to one side, the side you would most comfortably paddle on – your “on” side. In adition to all the benefits of paddling in the center(fore/aft), you now have the advantages of being very close to the water surface so you don’t have to reach down to put your paddle in it, very close to the edge making an efficient paddle stroke, close to your body, much easier, but you now have increased its straight-line tracking ablilty and its agility/maneuverability. Oh, and you have also made the craft, with you in it, the most stable it can be.
For support in this position and for the next position I use a sling seat that I made years ago out of flat nylon webbing and two sheets of leather.
OFF TO ONE SIDE
HEAD ON SHOT OF SOLO
As I mentioned previously, this position can be tough on the knees and ankles, but with some stretching and practise, it becomes much easier to stay in for much longer. Notice in the last shot how the upper body is in line with the hips (well, almost), and with the center axis of the canoe. From this position I can reach with my paddle blade nearly to the bow and stern making stearing strokes very effective. This is the position I choose to paddle almost all the time whether on a day trip with a small bag, just out putzing around, or actually dancing the boat.
The obvious requirement of this position though, is that all of the strokes must be done on the “on” side of the canoe. With sound, basic stroke technique, this position affords much greater control and maneuverability than any other position.
From the now defunct Wild Survive: Canoeing Tutorial – Omering:
Canoeing Tutorial – Omering (written by BB)
I get a lot of comments about the way I paddle a canoe…you know all tipped over on one side, and spinning ’round and ’round in circles. Kind’a like I’d had one or two to many shots of the good stuff!! I paddle a style that is know in Canada as “Classic Canadian Solo”, a name attributed to Becky Mason and her famous father Bill Mason. It is also known as “Omering” in the US, linked to a man named Omer Stringer. You can Google search this name and find a lot of info on him and his adventurous life, but he is also generally regarded as the “father” of this style. Here is a short explination of Omer and his paddling style.
Omer Stringer began his paddling career as a wilderness canoe guide in the Algonquin Park region of Ontario (and elsewhere) during the 1930′s. Back in his time the practice employed by guides was to transport their “sports” or clients across lakes to a campsite or hunting ground and then send the young guides back for what gear could not fit on the first run. Since many of the lakes in the area are HUGE and often quite rough, they would fill burlap sacks with rocks and place the sack in the bow of the canoe in an effort to weigh down the bow, as the paddler sat in the stern. This effectively eased the solo paddle across the open water as wind and wave action would not catch on the bow of the boat like a kite. Upon reaching the far shore the sacks would be emptied and gear would then be piled in for the trip back to the camp. To this day one can still find piles of rocks at the head of large-lake portages in the region.
Well, Omer didn’t think to kindly of paddling sacks of rocks around all day so he set about devising a better way to complete the chore. After watching the Algonquin, and other regional natives, paddle from the center of the canoe he believed this was the key. So, with a bit of practice he became quite adept at this style and felt he was on to something, but still was not satisfied. Ya see, while paddling from dead center of the boat does trim out the canoe, fore and aft just fine, it also forces the paddler to reach waaaay out to the side to effect an efficient, powerful stroke, rapidly tiring the paddler. So, while the boat was now less affected by wind than by paddling in the stern, it was still tough on the paddler.
After a fashion, Omer found that he was gradually inching over to one side of the canoe to get his paddle into the water at a more efficient angle… straight up and down. Soon, he realized that he was kneeling up against the gunwale in the center (fore/aft) of the canoe, and that the boat was now listing way over on its side, but that he now had VERY effective control of the boat, and that it was actually easier to maneuver the boat. In this listed state, the “roundest” portion of the hull is now in contact with the water, shortening the waterline, and making it extremely easy to turn, but also to track straight ahead.
Soon, he was teaching other guides this style and, in a manner, revolutionizing the way “sports” and gear were transported thru the wilderness. Word got around, and bach to the big cities of the US.. in particular Philidelphia where canoeing was becomming very populr. Saturday evenings at the local boat clubs were often highlighted with a parade of boats in front of the clubhouse, where boat owners would show off their finest craft and rowing/paddling style. Some of the club members were former clients of Omer Stringer who had since learned his unique style of paddling and brought it back home with them. They began to employ the new style during these boat parades and it became very popular due to its grace and fluidity. It wasn’t long before its popularity spread throughout the canoeing country of N America.
The interesting aspect of the origions of the style is that as soon as just one person deemed it to be “beautiful”, or “gracefull”, a shift in the paradigm had occured. It was then, no longer canoeing for work, it was now recreation. That is what the style is today… a form of recreation, where people have taken the basics of the style and torked it to its fullest. These days, people “dance” their canoes to music, or syncronized with another canoe. The goal is to make it seem like the paddler is doing NOTHING and the canoe is in motion of its own accord. In the eyes of a seasoned Omerer, even the slightest twitch of the upper gunwale is seen as a mistake… even the slightest splash of the paddle or knock of the paddle against the hull is a mis-step. Effortlessness, efficiency, and grace are the hallmarks of the style today.
Bow-pries, one-handed skimming bow pries, on and off-side one-handed skulling, submerged circular strokes, on and off-side shifts, reverse one-handed skimming stern pries, and a variety of other strokes and stroke combinations are employed to fortify the illusion of the boat and the paddler, and the water all working as a single gracefull marriage.
Well, I could go on, and on, and on, and…… But, I hope I have given you a idea of the style, and that it all makes sense.
*The last three photos are a series shot over about 15 seconds. They show me doing a sculling draw to move my canoe sideways toward the camera across a 50 foot cove, keeping in line with the tree behind my head the whole way.
Here’s a link to the Omer Stringer Story.
Here’s a pretty poor series of shots showing me doing a 360+ spin with one circular stroke. This spin takes about 5-8 seconds, and should be done while keeping the canoe perfectly steady, on axis(as if stuck on a pin) with no off-center drift, and with minimal, graceful movements of the paddle and paddler. And NO splashing or other noise.
For even more on Omer Stringer’s paddling technique….especially in the wind see Solo Paddling In Wind (Omering).
Also check out Maine Canoe Symposium: Paddling Styles Primer (by Shawn Burke). It is more than just a sampler of paddle strokes….but also covers some of the basic factors of canoe design and construction.
Finally no article on paddling would be complete without thinking of Bill Mason and his daughter Becky:
Path of the Paddle by Bill Mason
To me the Path of the Paddle series by Bill Mason is the definitive work on paddling….even today, years after their release, this series is still fresh and innovative….the description of the strokes….the filming of each, including animated patterns of the actual paddle stroke….the scenery….the wood canvas canoes….all of these add up to a great film series….of course this was Bill Mason in some of his favourite elements: film and canoeing….and thankfully the National Film Board has these entire films online for free.
Path of the Paddle: Solo Basic
This short film from canoeist Bill Mason illustrates the joy and poetry of paddling solo. All the basic strokes used to control the canoe are rendered with perfect clarity through animated lines.
Path of the Paddle: Solo Basic
Path of the Paddle: Doubles Basic
This short film from canoeist Bill Mason demonstrates the basic doubles paddling strokes and how to apply them in various combinations. The application of each stroke in rapids is shown briefly and the emphasis is always on working as a well-coordinated team.
Path of the Paddle: Doubles Basic
Path of the Paddle: Solo Whitewater
This short film from canoeist Bill Mason explains clearly how to locate a deep water channel by reading the rapids and how to apply paddling strokes and manoeuvres to steer the canoe where you want it to go. It also depicts what happens if you “wipe out” in a turbulent rapid and shows you how to survive the swim.
Path of the Paddle: Solo Whitewater
Path of the Paddle: Doubles Whitewater
This short film from canoeist Bill Mason shows how to read the rapids and plan a course and follow it, with complete control of the boat, using the basic paddling strokes. Running rapids will always be a calculated risk, but risk diminishes with skill and knowledge. The strokes can be used in endless combination to reduce the risks of whitewater canoeing and increase the sheer joy and exuberance.
Path of the Paddle: Doubles Whitewater
Becky Mason: Selections From Classic Solo Paddling
Becky learned a lot from her Dad….actually in my opinion she is a much better paddler….she is also a great teacher, doing courses and demonstrations….she created a DVD called Classic Solo Paddling….here is how this DVD is described on the Mason family website, http://www.redcanoes.ca/becky/canoe/solovideo.html:
Classic Solo Canoeing is a superbly crafted DVD that is both informative and beautiful to watch. Becky’s extraordinary skills coupled with some spectacular scenery and Ian Tamblyn’s original sound track make this a unique and charming production.
Becky Mason, in this innovative instructional canoeing DVD, takes you along in her red cedar canvas canoe to some of her favourite places where land and water meet. You’ll learn to apply the classic solo paddling strokes simply and gracefully, master the art of the portage, and pick up tips on canoe safety, maintenance, and equipment selection.
So what is Classic Solo Paddling???? According to Becky: Classic Solo Canoeing, sometimes also referred to as Omering or Canadian style paddling, centers on the practical aspects of canoeing. It’s a well-rounded, relaxed, traditional paddling style providing you with all of the skills you need so you can travel safely for an afternoon paddle or a month long adventure into the wilderness.
Canoe Ballet
Sample clip from Becky Masons DVD, “Classic Solo Canoeing”. www.redcanoes.ca.
Front Sweep
A sample of Becky Mason’s video “Classic Solo Canoeing” Here she demonstrates the front sweep. www.redcanoes.ca.
Canoeing Pry Sideslip Demonstration
A short clip of Becky Mason’s video, “Classic Solo Canoeing” Here she demonstrates the Pry Slideslip. www.redcanoes.ca.
Hopefully these clips whet your appetite for more….see www.redcanoes.ca for more details on this fantastic DVD.
NOTE: I’ve included these video links before to both Bill Mason’s Path of the Paddle series….as well as those of Becky’s. But they are certainly worth repeating. Since her original Classic Solo Canoeing DVD, Becky has come out with a newer/revised DVD set called Advanced Classic Solo Canoeing, which includes more advanced paddling technique, as well as incredible underwater shots….also included is the original Classic Solo Canoeing DVD, Solo Reflections music video, and Classic Solo Moments, a series of out takes. See Advanced Classic Solo Paddling.
In Advanced Classic Solo Canoeing Becky Mason takes you for a wild spin in her cedar-canvas canoe on the crystal clear waters of Lac Vert, Quebec. The advanced strokes and manoeuvres she shows are fun to watch and learn. Bonus features include a short video called Solo Reflections where Becky teams up with internationally renowned recording artist Ian Tamblyn to create an amazing collaborative musical paddling performance. Also includes Classic Solo Moments and the original Classic Solo Canoeing from 2000. Read more http://www.redcanoes.ca/becky/canoe/solopaddling.html.
The Advanced Classic Solo Canoeing dvd can be purchased at http://www.redcanoes.ca/store/dvds.html.
Here are some scenes from the production of the advanced DVD:
Paddles up until later….and remember that it is only one stroke at a time to get to wherever you’re going….even becoming a better paddler.
